solarbird

joined 2 years ago
[–] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 2 years ago

Absolutely not. I have nothing against the actor but yeah. Jim Carey every time.

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 1 points 2 years ago

If you're willing to get into annealing, I've had good service from annealed HTPLA in high temperature/humidity and even overpressure environments. I'm three years into a build that gets multiple hours of use in such conditions a week and it's held up fine. There have been other problems, but nothing related to bad behaviour out of the HTPLA.

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 3 points 2 years ago

oh that's pretty great :D

When my house got electricity in 1924, they got a backlit front light for over the doorway. It wasn't in good shape when we found it, but it was there, and I got it back together - except for the lighting. Which this really, really makes me want to fix now. :D

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 1 points 2 years ago

Nah, but I will print a temperature tower if it's a new filament - even if it's very similar to a filament I've had before. (As long as it's not an identical replacement. If it's an identical replacement and the previous isn't ancient, I won't even do that.)

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 3 points 2 years ago

Having done this, you can also get a "3D pen" that will work with your filament and that'll work decently well for small areas, and you can also use it to fill in gaps. Overheat the PLA a bit and work fast.

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 1 points 2 years ago

Like you, I've got a little assortment of spools I either printed or modified for this purpose - and in different sizes - and they work great. I'm at the point of getting spoolless filament when I can and I haven't seen a downside yet.

But if I'm going to get a new spool with my filaments, I'd prefer it be cardboard.

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 1 points 2 years ago

Yep, and that was like... the second thing I did for my printer. Since then I've gone to printing out of a warming box, but I still use the roller occasionally and I'm still glad I did it, it solved problems.

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 6 points 2 years ago

Oh wow, that looks hilarious, but in a fuck yeah you mad lad way. Is it the tower resonating or the part you're printing? If it's the tower I'd bet money you could solve the last of the problems with some kind of wall attachment for the tower. (Clip if you actually do haul it around, bracket if you don't.)

I had similarly good luck with a height mod on my 3V2 but that thing has a lot more mass to it, I expected it to work. I would not have expected this to work.

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 1 points 2 years ago

pretty much this - nothing wrong with Bink really? And Kebin is kind of funny, but kibby is best ^_^

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 1 points 2 years ago

Kibby!

I mean they're all fine but Kibby!

also Kibby should have Kirby powers ^_^

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 2 years ago

Also yeah instead of paper for levelling I bought a feeler gauge and it's way more reliable since, well, that's what it's for, as opposed to paper where thicknesses can be all over the place. They cost very little (under $10 USD) so they're something I consistently recommend.

[–] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 2 years ago

I am running magnetic sheet on glass bed with magnetic layer and it works great for me. I get a lot of weird pushback from people but... yeah, it works fine. And you can swap out plates and keep the rigidity and thermal mass of glass. If you don't want that then yeah, go straight to putting the magnetic sheet on the heating plate itself, but I've had heat-evenness issues and I like the extra thermal inertia so it solves problems for me.

I wrote it all up here if anyone wants to see details:

https://solarbird.net/blog/2023/04/09/the-question-im-sure-was-on-everyones-mind-can-you-combine-pei-and-glass-beds/

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