lemmyman

My wall oven went kaput - it had a good run (I think it's original with the house, from 1960. Or at least from the 80s. It has a mechanical timer!). But the heating element melted itself and I'm not really up for trying to find a replacement for that.

So I'm in the market for a new wall oven and seeking input. Key specs:

• It's a 24" single wall oven. Cutout is 22.5" wide, 28.5" high, and 25" deep.
• Electric power, 240V/30A circuit
• I only care about baking and broiling. Steam, air fry, wifi, rotisserie are all zero-to-negative for me.
• I would prefer physical dials and buttons but that seems uncommon these days
• I wouldn't want to go much more expensive than the options I've found (see below).

I've found two that seem like a native fit:

• GE JRS06SKSS
  • The installation manual shows that this needs a cabinet cutout below the unit, which I don't want to do because I have existing drawers there
• Frigidaire GCWS2438AF
  • This seems to fit my cutout without modification, so I'll probably buy this unless I find something better

Most other 24" models are designed for a shorter ~23" cutout, which is unfortunate because there are some substantially cheaper options (like $500 vs. $1700). For example the Empava EMPV-24WOB14, and some others from Magic Chef, Cosmo, and various other brands I've never heard of. It's maybe possible that I could build a nook above or below the oven, or a trim piece covering the opening. But I'd kind of just rather not.

Any thoughts on my best options here?

Edit to add: I opted to look harder for a replacement heating element, and after a long slog through a lot of appliance parts websites that don't offer many specs for their parts, I finally found a couple options that look like they will work at www.therm-coil.com, where it seems that every heating element they offer is listed with cross-references, dimensions, and terminal style. Like, all the stuff that should be listed on all the other sites but never is.

My oldest kid was out of school a whole week with pneumonia a couple weeks ago. I got very little work done (no work = no $ but that's OK in the short term).

On Friday I got a fever, chills, headache, lots of coughing, and massive massive fatigue. Now getting very little work done again. I'm probably going to be at like 40% typical income for the month. Again, OK in the short term but I got goals and this isn't helping you know?

By Tuesday it was about the same level so I did a "telehealth" visit thing and they said, yeah suck it up and take some robitussin.

Last night I started hearing the sound of rice krispies coming from my throat after a breath. I think that's a pretty tell tale sign of fluid in the lungs.

So today I went to urgent care. They did a chest x ray but the radiologist was out and the doctor found the imaging inconclusive but put me on antibiotics anyway.

Hopefully I will start feeling better in a day or two. This sucks.

I left a spool of eSun PLA+ beige in my Prusa MK4 with Prusa enclosure, which has sat idle since my last print about 6 weeks ago. The enclosure has a PTFE filament feed tube that runs the filament from the spool to the extruder.

Today I went to change the filament, and it broke apart in several pieces, right at the ends of the ptfe filament feed tube. The filament on the spool itself - within an inch of where it simply separated from the broken bits - I can fold over 180° tight without breaking it. Even the several ~1" lengths of broken bits are similarly ductile.

Ambient humidity is something like 15% (per my filament dryer) to 30% (per my dehumidifier, which is idle because it's winter).

Any idea why this happened? I'm curious about maybe interactions with the PETG parts that the broken pieces were close to (that's the only thing I can come up with, anyway).

Anyone have a recommendation for a benchtop current sense amplifier?

Sure, there are current sense breakout boards and whatnot. But what I'd like is a convenient device that I can use to instrument a circuit and then monitor its current with my oscilloscope or logic analyzer (Saleae with analog input) along with other signals in the circuit.

Ideal features might be:

• Banana jack inputs and outputs
• Selectable range / sensitivity / sense resistor
• Isolated measurement, so I can measure high-side or low-side currents without worrying too much about the common connection on my scope
• Selectable or automatic power source selection, between circuit-powered and externally-powered

I haven't seen anything like this in a few targeted searches, and just wondering if someone has any suggestions I might have missed.