VE3MAL

Yes. This is a setting in the menu. Audio source is selectable separately for -D and non-D, so one of them can use the mic and one can use the aux, or whatever you want. I believe it also recalls the various DSP settings as well, so you can set things up how you like for phone, and for digi and easily toggle back and forth.

It's not about a pre-set per-se, but about having 2 custom U/LSB profiles.

Put the volt-meter in series with a switch or momentary button. They tend to draw a little power, so you don't want it draining your battery when you are not using it. If you stick a cig (accessory) port in there too, you could plug in other things, or a usb charger or whatever if needed. I've used my pota battery to run a small 12v air compressor, for instance.

Amateur radios are generally spec'd at 13.8v plus or minus either 10% or 15% so that they work on a non-running car (12.something volts) or if an alternator is running a bit hot. A 100W radio like this is pretty much always going to require around 20amps at full power -but they have adjustable transmit power. They don't transmit as well at the lower voltage range, but most people don't worry about it.

It's a (kind of silly) throwback to the radios that armies used in the first half of the 20th century that were large enough to necessitate a dedicated person backpacking them around everywhere. It's still common in ham radio like other traditionalist terms. "Portable station" is more accurate, but maybe boring?

There's negligible advantage in loss going from pl259 to N connectors on HF. You don't have the kind of losses you do on VHF and especially UHF. The only time N is really nice is when you need an intrinsically weatherproof connector -but this is mounted inside the weatherproof box.

If you want slightly better loss specs AND a more convenient, quicker connector, BNC is great. But PL259, as I said, is fine.

I would look at fabbing up a box that fits snugly, rather than "clamping" them. That could protect against puncture as well. A 3d print or thin plywood glued together would be fine.

Star Trek discussion /usually/ tends toward anything new being bad, and always has. SNW and lower decks are exceptions because they do so much fan service and return to a more classic Trek format. Discovery was groundbreaking in a way that I'm sure Roddenberry would have enjoyed, but groundbreaking also implies jarring change and throwing away things that work for experiments that sometimes don't.

This is a really good take. I have enjoyed the serialized shows -but they are a juggernaut of emotion and intensity to watch. You tend to watch them once, and it's a fairly wild ride, but then it's done. I suspect that I will be re-watching episodes of SNW and lower decks for years to come, as I have for TOS and TNG. That's how Trek wormed it's way into my brain in the first place.

Is this for FM? Most people are using vertically polarized antennas for that. You could turn it on it's side, and feed that coax sideways for at least a few feet.

The trick with a friend and JS8Call would be to utilize heartbeats and script up some sort of notification alert when a path opens.

If you don't have trees and want an easy, portable solution. Buy a $20 20 foot "crappie" fishing pole on your favorite online retailer, and run a 20m 1/4wave vertical wire up it. Add between 4 and 8 radials on the ground, and craft up a simple guy system with some rope and tent pegs. Cheap, lightweight, and highly effective, especially at this point in the solar cycle. Cut some shorter wires for higher bands and you can pick and choose which one to hoist on a given outing. The only downside is that right now, specifically js8call activity is still heavily on 40m. You will make boatloads of ft8 contacts on 20 though.

An EFHW can be oriented as an inverted-V, it's just that it's fed at the end rather than in the middle (at the top). If that's how you set it up, the main difference is some transformer losses in the EFHW, but it can operate on all harmonics rather than just odd harmonic bands. A center fed inverted v may be a little more tolerant with regards to tuning the length. Centre-fed is going to be more "idiot proof" in that respect and possibly easier as a first antenna.