IMALlama

Some highlights:

• Output: Dimmable 12,850 Lux at 3.3' w/ Reflector
• Built in fan
• 2700-7500K CCT
• Full RGB Color Control
• AC, Optional Battery & USB-C Power
• CRI 96 | TLCI 94 | SSI 82, 70

The battery connector accepts either a 14.8 or 26 volt pack, so presumably you could wire up a belt mounted battery. Or, you know, buy the official battery.

Do progress updates, or even ideation posts, fit this community?

Motivations:

• I don't ton of free time, which means when I finally finish something I'm much more likely to share the end result and not get into the details that eventually got me there. IMO the details, especially the failures along the way, are a lot more interesting than just the result and provide more opportunity for teaching/learning
• Big projects can be daunting. Talking about the journey will help others be more willing to set off on their own journey

I recently installed LDO's version of the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door on my Voron 2.4 350.

My 2.4 is stock in terms of heating other than having the filter, ACM panels, and 2x bed fans.

Takeaways?

• If you want to make graphs, make sure you have comparable conditions. I was printing during both graphs and the prints had different aspect ratios (before was taller than wide, after was wider than tall). This probably explains why before appears to have heated faster
• The better sealing door, with thicker acrylic did help chamber temps, but only by 3 degrees C
• It takes a very long time to heat soak a 350mm^3 chamber, even with 4x bed fans
• I wish I had a graph before I swapped the ACM panels on, but I don't and the panels are gone :(

I will be lining my panels with radiant insulation in the next week or three and will report back what, if any, changes that makes.

Or not, but there was an attempt!

Just a cellphone photo that's not particularly well framed, but I liked the contrast between dark trees and the sky. Bonus points for some snow.

Bonus points if you post some here too. I'll work on doing better on that myself.

Is there such a thing? Some of our plants inevitably grow towards the window quite a bit when I forgot to water them. A very slowly rotating plant stand seems like an obvious solution, but I haven't found any good offerings.

I am in the process of buttoning up a Nitehawk conversion on my Voron. I also replaced my extruder thermistor with an OE replacement purchased from a reputable vendor.

Post setup, my heated bed is reading spot on (it's 18.3 C in my basement aka 65 F). I verified that my extruder is also at ambient temperature by wedging a Thermapen under its silicone sock and letting it acclimate for 10 minutes. The I'm not sure why the extruder would be reading high.

I bought a spare thermistor and wired it in. The result was identical.

Thoughts? Ideas? I'm pretty sure I have the Nitehawk and thermistor set up correctly.

[extruder] step_pin: nhk:gpio23 dir_pin: nhk:gpio24
enable_pin: !nhk:gpio25
heater_pin: nhk:gpio9
sensor_pin: nhk:gpio29
pullup_resistor: 2200
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G`

As an aside, titling these things is getting harder by the post lol

Klipper aborted the print with:

Heater extruder not heating at expected rate Transition to shutdown state: Heater extruder not heating at expected rate See the 'verify_heater' section in docs/Config_Reference.md

Before any of this started,I goobered my original Rapido, so I replaced it with a Rapido 2. It's been in the printer since April, but I haven't done a ton of printing with it. After the replacement, all was well for a while. At some point, Klipper started randomly tripping thermal runaway protection. The spikes were instantaneous, so I suspected a wire break. It wouldn't be my first and they're usually easy to find. I moved the tool head around trying to find it with no success. I pulled apart both cable chains (yay Voron) to look for the wire break and didn't find one. I flipped the printer updside down and connections at the MCU - everything was fine. I went through the hot end and inadvertently pulled the thermistor out of the m3 slug. Here's a stock photo:

Suspecting a potential wire break at the thermistor, I manipulated the wiring to no real effect. Inside the M3 bung was some dried white stuff, which I think was probably Boron Nitride Paste. I bought some more from Slice Engineering and reinstalled the thermistor.

Two things changed after this. First, the terminator seems to be reading lower than it did before. I say this because I have a ton more stringing than I did previously. Second, the temperature is no longer spiking but it is doing this high frequency oscillation thing now.

The oscillation only happens once the printer is moving quickly. If it's still, or moving slowly, things are fine.

Thoughts? I'm suspecting the thermistor, but would like to troubleshoot if possible vs just throwing parts at the printer.