HVAC/R technicians and affiliated trades

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This is intended to be for hvac technicians and with hvac technicians in mind. Please refer to c/hvacadvice for out of the trade conversation, requests for help and whatnot.

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Can I replace it myself, or is does it take some kind of calibration?

Also, the sidebar recommends posting to HVACAdvice, but as far as my search bar can find, it does not exist.

THANKS!!!

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The best way I can describe it is when you have an oven on clean mode, that you start smelling that metallic kind of smell.

The watchmen came and put new filters on the HVAC unit, but I still get a wiff of it for the first 20-30 seconds of the unit starting up, and then it doesn't smell anymore. I'm wondering if whatever that smell is, is unhealthy, and what it could be?

Would getting a higher MERV filter help or is it likely something wrong with the unit?

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Another old work pic.

This is a variable speed DC compressor I got to work with a while back. The machine this goes in is a 1 cubic foot environmental chamber that is accurate to 0.01C. It was a nice change compared to the big scrolls I normally worked with.

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TLDR - All my refrigeration experience is with high end environmental chambers and I want to become a commercial HVAC-R service tech. Do I have any chance at getting hired?

So right now I have a few years of experience working as an environmental chamber tech. Basically, I'm the in house guy wo sets up, tunes, and troubleshoots new and returned environmental chambers. These are some pretty complex and varied machines refrigeration wise. Some are single phase, some are 3 phase, some use single stage refrigeration, some use cascade refrigeration, some use water cooled condensers, some utilize liquid nitrogen, some are designed to have ultra high ramp rates, some are designed to be ultra precise, some use 5.5hp compressors, some use a tiny dc compressor the size of my fist. So I think I know my way around the refrigeration side of things fairly well.

The thing is this is this is all I have done professionally in regards to refrigeration. I have never professionally worked on any heating appliance (I have worked on them personally) and I've never been a field service tech. The more I think about it the more this feels like a sports car factory tech applying to work in a diesel truck shop. I know a lot of the principles as far as electrical and refrigeration troubleshooting goes. I know how to read schematics. I'm 608 universal certified. I know how to recover, vac, and charge a system. I know how to braze. I know how to set/measure superheat and subcool. I know I can learn whatever I don't know fairly quickly. But is that actually enough for them to be willing to give me a van and set me loose upon unsuspecting customers?

Either way, I'd be interested to hear what you actual service techs think. If I put in an application do I have a shot?

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Another old work pic to liven up the place.

One of our production guys put this service valve on and thought it was fine. Getting the damn thing back off required a pipe wrench.

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Just posting old work pics to try and get some life here.

This was on a piece of equipment that came back in for RMA because it leaked refrigerant. The field techs couldn't find the leak. Best guess is there was a bit of moisture in the threads and over time it froze and thawed enough to crack the cap.

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/26703241

This diagram is from the service manual of a combi boiler. It’s a flow sensor which detects whether hot water is running, which is then used to trigger on-demand heat and switch a diverter to take radiators out of the loop.

In English, the diagram shows:

  • X ⅔ red wire (+5V)
  • X 2/2 black wire (ground)
  • X 2/6 green wire (signal)

I need to know what those fractions mean. I took the voltage measurements in this video:

I cannot necessarily trust the model in that video to have the same specs as mine. My voltmeter detected 4.68 V on the red input wire showing that the sensor is well fed. The green “signal” wire is supposed to be 0 V at rest and 2 V with water running (or I think the reverse of that is used in some models). In my case the green wire is ~1.33 V at rest and ~0.66 V when water is running. I need to know if these readings are normal as I troubleshoot this problem.

update


@synapse@lemmy.world gave the right answer. Someone in another cross-post helped solve the underlying problem.

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Hello, I am getting estimates for updating the heating/cooling in my owner occupied 2 unit home. New York is offering incentives for switching away from natural gas so I'm hoping to get this done before winter. Each unit is about 1000 sq ft. Do these prices look about right? I have no knowledge about any of this, just want to make sure I'm not being taken for a ride. Thanks!

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I'm not in HVAC but I loved these photos

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Hello (lemmy.ml)
submitted 2 years ago by f0rgotten@lemmy.ml to c/hvac@lemmy.ml
 
 

If something happens to the main r/hvac on reddit, this is here as a new version, I guess.