Home Assistant

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Home Assistant is open source home automation that puts local control and privacy first. Powered by a worldwide community of tinkerers and DIY...

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Economy-Case-7285 on 2025-02-23 14:14:08+00:00.


Since I work from home, I wanted a dedicated tablet on my desk to display my personal and work calendars using Home Assistant. Initially, I planned to repurpose an old Kindle Fire HD 8, but while searching for a dock, I found a 10.1-inch Raspberry Pi touchscreen case. It worked out great since I already had a Pi 4 lying around. I set it up with ChromiumOS, and now it functions perfectly as a smart dashboard.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/aquifer-index-67 on 2025-02-23 14:07:12+00:00.


I’m pretty new to Home Assistant, and recently switched from a HA Green to a mini PC. I found a video on YT that was extremely helpful, and the process went very smoothly. Until I got to the restore part.

I installed HA on bare metal, meaning it is its own operating system, not running as a virtual machine. When I got it installed, I navigated to the HA mini PC using my local web browser as instructed. All good. At that point it asked me if I wanted to set up a new account or restore from backup.

No matter what I tried, it would not restore from the backup I had on my local NAS. I tried all three backup .tar files to no avail. The error stated “Failed to start restore. Unknown error” every time I tried. My NAS backups are not encrypted, but I copied and pasted them to my local hard drive thinking maybe there was an authentication problem between HA and my NAS. Nope. Didn’t work from there either.

All of the dialog indicated that it was restoring a partial backup. It seemed to me that they should be FULL backups, but nothing in the HA settings gave me any choice about the magnitude of said backups. Mine seemed to be just regular backups.

Prior to this process I had updated my HA to the latest release as I always do, and did a fresh backup (twice actually, just to be sure I had a good copy).

I still had my Green, so I turned off the new mini PC and plugged in the Green and tried making a new backup yet again. Unplugged the Green and turned on the mini PC to try again. Same error.

The solution for me was to set up the new mini PC instance as a new user and restore the backup from there. I chose something like Test as the user and set up a simple junk password just to get it going. Once I got in, I could then restore from my backup, and it worked perfectly.

When the restore was complete, it asked me to log in. At that point I used my “real” HA credentials, not the fake temporary one. It logged me in as expected and it’s been humming along perfectly now.

What I don’t know is what would have happened if I had tried to set up a new user by using my existing HA credentials. I didn’t want to try, but if anyone has done that and it worked, please let me know.

There is either something crucial that I do not know, or else the Restore process needs to work better. Or at least better instructions on screen that your backup isn’t going to work until such and such procedure is performed.

Hopefully someone running into this will find this helpful. Once I did the above, everything worked perfectly. The only subsequent problem was that I had to re-connect my NAS for backups, but that went fine.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/sccrwoohoo on 2025-02-23 12:58:43+00:00.


How much time do you spend on the average week tinkering your HA dashboards, automation, you name it…

I feel like I have a problem, all with the excuse to my family, “I’m making your life better.” 🤪

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Over-Memory2838 on 2025-02-23 11:33:07+00:00.


This is how I styled my LCARS Interface in home assistant. I liked the green color in Star Trek Nemesis.

Since I also think the transporter control with the 3 bars is very nice, I wanted to incorporate something similar with bars into the UI. Since I also like the "slim" presentation of the UI so much, I didn't want to have the typical round controls for the heating controls. So I built 3-button controls with custom buttons. The middle one shows the status or temperature, and pressing a button shows the familiar menu. In the case of the roller shutters, it simply functions as a stop.

It is still quite simple in design, and I am not yet satisfied with the text display of the values, but I think it is still impressive haha

Of course, I know that there were blue UIs in the film too, but I just liked the green and lighter blue :)

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/omrcrtra on 2025-02-22 16:58:16+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/murran_buchstanseger on 2025-02-22 01:56:40+00:00.


It took about 2 years but I finally migrated the last couple of Node Red flows into Home Assistant as native automations. Ironically the one I migrated last is the best example for why I did it - mobile (phone) editing, which Node Red just can't handle effectively. The final migrated flow was one that monitors for Zwave event notifications coming from my light switches (e.g. double tap/keyheld etc) and it's really great that I can edit these using the HA automation editor on my phone standing by the light switches, rather than running back and forth to my laptop each time I want to test the action of the physical switch.

Nothing against Node Red otherwise, it filled a gap when it was needed most - but HA has evolved to a point where I can't find a use case for it otherwise. I'll still keep it installed (but not running) in case someone shares something that I want to check out.

What are your Node Red use cases (other than legacy reasons)?

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/obsessivethinker on 2025-02-21 22:55:35+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/igmyeongui on 2025-02-22 04:17:51+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/ElGuano on 2025-02-22 02:15:44+00:00.


Mainly I want to have something to refer to in case I need to do this again, but I thought it may be helpful for others, too. FWIW, I migrated my home network to a Unifi stack. I came for the firewall controls, stayed for site manager and built-in PoE Protect NVR.


Unifi Migration - Network Issues and Notes

SFP+ between gateway and switch General instability with 5m 10Gbps passive copper DAC. One SFP port just didn't work, the other dropped intermittently. Moved to a 10m AOC cable, which worked immediately and flawlessly.

Home Assistant in Proxmox: Only one IP will show up associated with the port that you plug the NIC into. That may be the HA VM or it may be Proxmox. Home Assistant needs to be on port 8123. HA doesn’t need a specific IP address to work, it will load on any IP you set it to, as long as you know what it is.

This Home Assistant setup uses Duckdns for dynamic DNS, and LetsEncrypt through nginx for the SSL certificate (https). I’ve found it’s possible to pass traffic through the internet with a port forward (which creates an automated firewall rule):

Routing -> Port Forwarding -> Create Entry -> WAP1 port 443 from Any, Forwarded IP Address (internal home assistant IP), Forward Port: 443 (NOT 8123, since nginx is setting SSL), protocol TCP.  This probably routes all SSL internet traffic to HA, not sure what to do if I ever run another web server.

Set Home Assistant internal and external IPs/domains in the Companion App, and also in Home Assistant Settings / System / Network. Don't forget to set the SSIDs to trigger internal URL.

Proxmox: You need to connect a keyboard and monitor to the Beelink NUC and follow the instructions here to manually change the IP address before you can access Proxmox via the browser. It will be at the new IP on port 8006.

Insteon: NOTE: The HA Insteon integration doesn’t allow for changing the IP of the Insteon Hub V2. 

Insteon MAY show a “Utilities” screen in the integration configuration, that will let you reset the IP. But it doesn’t always show up (it may need a live connection to the Hub to expose this). First tried changing the IP to what you want it to be in HA before moving it to the new IP, but this gave me a modem connection error.

If you delete the Insteon installation, you may not be able to re-add it. This is because it leaves a hidden “ignored” integration called “Insteon Hub” that is blocking re-install; you have to stop ignoring it in Settings / Devices and Services / Integrations, and delete it, before you can reinstall the full Insteon integration and provide a new Hub IP. Port/User/Password is on the bottom of the Hub:

Port: 25105

Username: xxxx

Password: yyyy

Rename Insteon entities [light.location], such as light.hallway to maintain compatibility with your Floorplan images

Shelly: IP can be set in HA config. Wifi may need login. Connect to the Shelly’s existing IP (port 80). Go To Settings - Internet and Security - WiFi Mode Client to change the SSID.

ESPHome Devices: most can have new wifi/password set from their config yaml files in the ESPHome Builder (secrets file is a good place to add them). You may need to do this on the old SSID first, and use Wireless update to change the yaml. Some devices may need to be plugged via USB to set their new wifi.

WLED: Most can be accessed through . WLEDs can be connected to computer via USB, and the WLED web installer can be connected to change Wifi settings.

ChromeCast: Go to Google Home app, Forget the wifi network and re-discover the device from scratch.

Casting to devices on another network may be a problem. mDNS has to be enabled between main and IoT networks, and it still may take a few hours to "settle" before Home, Casting, and device discovery works between VLANs.

Printer: Can sometimes be difficult to find/discover via Bonjour. Ensure multicast DNS is enabled between VLANs, and try disconnecting the printer and re-adding it to the IoT WiFi. You may need to delete the printer from existing Chromebooks, Macs and tablets and re-add it when it has joined the new network.

.local DNS access (homeassistant.local:8123, wled.local): Enable mDNS on all affected VLANs (Default, IoT). In Settings - Network, make sure IoT Auto-Discovery is checked and enabled for all VLANs, and if Multicast Filtering (IGMP Snooping) is enabled, use “Forward Unknown Multicast Traffic” enabled between VLANs. It’s working now without Multicast Filtering enabled, which is better.

Wled sometimes connects to wled.local when it first connects to Wifi, but then seems to stop connecting a few minutes later; unsure why but it seems to work after settling down for a day or so. IGMP snooping settings don’t seem to be needed after all.

Amcrest Cameras: Amcrest cameras work great in ONVIF mode with Unifi Protect. By default, the camera’s user-created group accounts cannot access ONVIF. Only the original admin account will work because of a system_info bug.

The command here sets the flag correctly to allow regular users, it can be run from the browser’s onebox:  

Unifi Protect Cameras in Home Assistant: The Unifi Protect integration is legacy, and isn’t well supported. It is possible to get high quality, zero-lag rtsp streams, but it is fickle. Sometimes the HA stream becomes a low-res, highly-compressed (ffmpeg?) refreshing snapshot feed rather than live video.

To resolve, adopt the cameras into Unifi, and then enable the high/med/low-res streams desired. Then add/refresh the cameras into the Unifi Protect integration. The integration will present an “rtsp disabled” warning dialogue and you can click “submit” to fix it. At that point, the streams you have previously enabled for rtsp should now work. If anything doesn’t work (you enable or disable a new rtsps stream), you can Remove the camera inside Unifi, Delete it from HA’s Unifi Protect Integration, and re-adopt the camera when it shows back up in Unifi. Re-enable the rtsps streams before clicking the “submit” button to fix the error shown in HA.

Also, part of the problem may be Standard v. Enhanced encoding for the camera recording in Unifi Camera Recording settings. Keep it on Standard (H.264).

If you get this wrong, HA may go into a permanent 100% CPU cycle as the built-in gotortsp process pegs out and will not stop, can be viewed by logging into HA console and using "top" command. If you correctly set all your streams to RSTP, the gotortsp process will always stop successfully and you should see 2-3% CPU usage whenever camera video is not streaming.

Cync Light. Cync requires at least one device to be wifi-connected for HA to work. So you can control the lights from the Cync app without connecting them to the new wifi, but HA won’t be able to control them. Go to the Cync mobile app and re-connect one or more devices to the new wifi IoT SSID. Home Assistant will automatically find the devices through the Cync cloud integration. 

Don't Forget: Things that need to be added to new wifi: Bambu Lab printer, smart TVs, Govee Lights from Govee mobile app, Apple watches somehow.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/angrycatmeowmeow on 2025-02-21 22:00:53+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/lgcyan on 2025-02-21 21:30:02+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/gggghhhhiiiijklmnop on 2025-02-21 19:58:20+00:00.


Hey!

I know, mega mega super duper niche, but anyways want to share 😂

I created an integration for the Endolla charging infrastructure in Barcelona. In the case that there's anyone else in this sub from BCN that also drives an electric car.... then this is for you!

It allows you to get the status of an Endolla charging station into your HA, which you can use to figure out whether to go charge or not etc etc.

I think it's pretty cool and hats off to the BCN city council for sharing the data openly :) :) :)

In case you're interested you can find the integration here -

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/willdeebeast3457 on 2025-02-21 19:16:36+00:00.


This is going to sound silly, it is.

I was rewatching the Harry Potter series with my family. In the Burrow (Weasley family home) there is a clock in the kitchen that instead of time shows the location of the various family members. The hands represent the family members, and the hour marks represent locations.

I'd like to try and recreate this if possible. Instead of hours the space will represent typical locations such as home, school, or work. When a family member arrives to these areas the hand will change to the corresponding "hour". This will in theory will be it's own page that is displayed on a tablet or similar device that's hung on the wall.

I don't know if something like this is even possible in home assistant, or where to begin. If you have any advice, or ideas I'd love to hear them. Thanks in advance!

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/citrusalex on 2025-02-21 12:56:04+00:00.


Like many people using Home Assistant I have a home server with the cheapo Intel Arc A380 for Jellyfin transcoding that otherwise does nothing, so I whipped up a docker compose to easily run Intel GPU-accelerated speech-to-text using whisper.cpp:

Initial request will take some time but after that, on my A380, short requests in English like "Turn off kitchen lights" get processed in ~1 second using the large-v2 Whisper model. speech-to-phrase can be better (although it depends on audio quality) if you are using only the default conversation agent, but since whisper transcripts any speech, it could be useful when paired together with LLMs, especially local ones in Prefer handling commands locally mode.

I imagine something like the budget Arc B580 should be able to run both whisper and a model like llama3.1 or qwen2.5 at the same time (using the ipex image) at a decent speed.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/AdFit8727 on 2025-02-21 07:57:14+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/MrPicc010 on 2025-02-21 03:48:22+00:00.


Title says it all. I had to get a new phone due to a series of unfortunate events. I've had it for a few weeks and just now realized that I haven't logged into my govee, ecobee, tuya, smart life, beehive.... Or any other account I forgot I have for my smart home control and it all works!

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/anonjedi on 2025-02-20 23:51:01+00:00.


First of all - hats off to the developers and everybody behind the Voice PE device, as well as all the necessary software to support it. Ive already bought 3 and it has been a game changer in my home.

Ive created a complex personality of my AI and I am for now offloading the prompts to gpt4o (the gpt4o-mini or claude seem to struggle with my quite lenghty prompt and 100 exposed entities)

This post is not meant as criticism - everything works beyond mi wildest expectations when I first ordered the device.

But I would like to know what are the limitations and features that you are missing.

For me it is the following:

  1. custom wake word - this will come I believe as the development on microWakeWord is incredible and Ive heard developers mention it on youtube few times
  2. have multiple wake words on one satellite - each triggering different agent
  3. have multiple chatgpt/claude/ollama prompts per agent randomly rotating. Because the conversation is restarted from time to time, the agent often reacts very similar of even the same way on my prompt. Its not often, but after using it for 1+ week nonstop, I often get the same jokes or fun facts or even exact phrasing. To explain further, Ive made my AI agent to be sarcastic annoyed AI superbot, so I expect it to give me funny replies on my commands. This works GREAT but from time to time I've heard that thing a bit too often. Or a specific word. E.g. when I turn of my lights, I will in 30% hear that my room is now "basking in darkness". Funny from time to time, but it gets old. Having 5 slightly different prompts on rotation would result in slightly different personalities and vocabs (or I could explicitly prohibit some words) and such things would happen less
  4. allow agent to indicate it wants a followup conversation. Right now if I ask sth, it replies and it needs my to give more info, I have to say "Ok, nabu" again. Would be great if the agent would have a tool or way to end sentence which HA would interpret to immediately listen again and continue the chat
  5. when I use the assistant on my phone (as it integrates really well into Android 15, replacing google gemini for me) it does not relay the information about the device which initiated conversation to the prompt. This is not the case with Voice PE satellites where it is part of the prompt.

For the far future I would love to:

  1. have agent recognize who talks and include this in the prompt. Right now it includes info about which device was activated and this solves the issue when its my office, but for common room, this would be a game changer. This would make commands such as "my calendar" or "my car" understandable without mistakes

P.S. Shoutout to TheFes who made these blueprints

If you didnt know know about them, well, now you do and they fill some gaps in the current 2025.2 state of the software

--

So what is it for you? And perhaps - do you have any workarounds for the issues I've mentioned?

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/MrWinter00 on 2025-02-20 22:35:44+00:00.


It seems there is no way to DIY Zigbee devices similar that allows DIY sensor/led/etc integration similar to ESP-Home only via Zigbee instead.

I wonder why as DIY Zigbee could be a real game changer for some usecases. Is that impression correct or am I missing something?

Update: I missed sth. The (currently) external ESPHome component

Allows for Zigbee ESPs such as H2 or C6 to use zigbee within ESPHome. Haven’t tried it, but that’s great news! Have fun and thanks for the comment!

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/ginandbaconFU on 2025-02-20 16:36:50+00:00.


Okay, I need a sanity check. Anyone that has the S3-Box-3, or one of it's variants who also happens to own the PE could try out the new code, that would be great. I am sitting 3ft away from my PE and my S3-Box-3 is maybe 8 to 10 feet away and it's answering (LLM) or doing everything.

As you can see below, a huge part of the last ESPHome update was getting completely off ESP-ADF, which is espressif's audio framework/software and it's apparently a nightmare so with little to no documentation on the hardware they completely re-did the ADC (microphone) audio and ADC (audio out). They mentioned that it was better but I am pretty shocked considering they couldn't even find any documentation on some of these DAC's (3 in the middle) for audio output. I'm sure the documentation for the microphone was probably non existent also.

If you have "taken control" you will need to re flash your device here If you want to merge your current yaml; it was last updated 13 hours ago and can be found here Regardless, if you have an S3 box and didn't get a prompt for an update, re flash it. It appears to vastly improved but at the same time, I got both the respeaker lite and the PE so I have had the S3-Box-3 unplugged for a good month or so. It seems way better but relying on memory isn't the best way to "measure" how much better it is. Anyone else who wants to chime in, please do... If you just own the S3-Box-3 and got the update, did you notice any improvement?

Forgot to add, if you want the details from the live stream they can be found below

Three years ago, we added support for using ESP-IDF directly (as an alternative to Arduino). This brought about a number of benefits and a new syntax was introduced to facilitate greater flexibility when specifying and configuring your microcontroller/board.

In this release, we’ve removed support for the “old style” of configuring your microcontroller/board. If you’re still using it, you’ll need to update your configurations to use the new style. A brief explanation is here, but for more detail, please see the documentation for your microcontroller platform.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/ajmorr_is on 2025-02-20 12:46:07+00:00.


Here is my Sonoff NSPanel Pro 120 with Home Assistant running as a web shortcut (no additional applications sideloaded). It took a bit of designing to get everything to fit correctly and the font sizes to be large enough to see - and I am still working on some of this, but it's useable as it is.

A quick video is attached to give an overview of how it looks and works!

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Constant-Mention6265 on 2025-02-20 05:47:54+00:00.


For reference I use 5 Sonoff NS Panel 120's in my home as HA Dashboards. These devices essentially run AOSP 8.0 and can run most android apps. The problem is that these devices will never get any security updates so they pose a security risk to your network.

SCOPE:

This guide is meant to restrict internet access on these devices to reduce the attack vector. It was created for the NS Panel Pro but it should work with any android tablet that has access to ADB. I will NOT be covering how to get the NS Panel Pro into the stock android launcher (see the below guides for that).

Script files can be found on my GitHub

Requirements

  • ADB
  • Some basic knowledge of networking
  • A server for hosting and running the scripts
  • Chrony add-on in Home Assistant
    • A downside of blocking internet access to the tablet is that the clocks can get messed up. We will provide the tablets with an internal NTP server to sync the clocks instead
  • Mosquitto Broker Add-on in Home Assistant
    • This will be used to track the status of updates for the devices

Abbreviations/Terms

  • ha.internal
    • dns rewrite of my home assistant IP address
    • I prefer not using the IP address just so if you need to change the IP of HA or even your subnet then you dont need to change these settings again
  • NSP
    • Short for NS Panel Pro
  • All Path files are just references, use your own paths to your files

Prepping NSP

Follow this guide

Firewall Rules (Opnsense)

nsp_switches is an alias for the group of NSP devices with static ip address reservations

Prepping HA

We want to be able to track if an update was successful or not, so why not track it within home assistant itself using MQTT?

  • Create an MQTT login for the LXC under the configuration tab of the Mosquitto Broker addon in HA

This will be used by the LXC to authenticate to the MQTT server

  • Create an MQTT sensor in your configuration.yaml to track the sensor
    • I created 1 sensor to track all my devices but you can create 1 sensor for each device if you wish

Prepping Server

You can use any linux server/computer you want but I am using a debian LXC in proxmox so my commands will be specific to debian.

  • Install the fdroidcl package on your system +
  • Install MQTT Broker
    • sudo apt install mosquitto mosquitto-clients
  • Create directories in root
    • mkdir scripts
    • mkdir downloads
    • Create files in scripts folder
      • nano adb-ips.index
      • nano download-apps.sh
      • nano install-apps.sh
  • Add your scripts to Cron for the frequency you want
    • crontab -e
      • 0 11 1,15 * * ~/scripts/install-apps.sh

Test it out an celebrate if all goes well!

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Technical_Raisin_246 on 2025-02-20 17:24:30+00:00.


Hey everyone!

I've been working on this project for months, and I couldn’t be more excited to finally share it with you. Meet the Sensy-One mmWave Sensor – a little gadget built to make your Home Assistant setup even cooler! And guess what? After just one week, we've already sold 5 sensors!

sensy-one

What Makes This Sensor Stand Out?

  • Instant Home Assistant Integration: The sensor features built-in auto-discovery via the BLE Improv protocol—power it up and Home Assistant instantly recognizes it. No BLE available? It seamlessly switches to AP mode for rock-solid, effortless integration.
  • Precision Motion Tracking: Track up to three targets in real time! Leveraging the Hi-Link LD2450, it accurately detects X and Y coordinates, movement speed, and more over a 6-meter range, with a wide 120° field of view and a 35° pitch angle. Whether it’s catching subtle shifts or dynamic motion, you can count on its precision.
  • Customizable Detection Zones: Tailor your monitoring with three detection zones and one exclusion zone. Each detection area is backed by dedicated sensors that measure movement, presence, and target count. With adjustable motion thresholds and timeouts, you can fine-tune the sensor’s sensitivity to perfectly match your environment.
  • Power-Packed Performance: Under the hood, the sensor is powered by a dual-core ESP32-S3 Pico microcontroller with an optimized Wi-Fi module, delivering lightning-fast response times and real-time data processing for ultra-reliable automation.
  • Compact Design: At just 25 mm × 25 mm × 50 mm, this sensor proves that big performance comes in a small package. The rotating wall mount—with an adhesive strip for easy installation—lets you direct the sensor exactly where it’s needed. Plus, it’s available in sleek black or crisp white, and when you remove the wall mount, it gets even slimmer at just 20 mm thick.
  • Made in the Netherlands: Proudly designed and manufactured in the Netherlands, reflecting top-quality innovation and craftsmanship.

Head over to our GitHub to check out all the setup details, our full roadmap, and to share your ideas. Got suggestions for improvements? Drop a comment or open an issue – I’d love to hear from you.

Curious to see it in action? Watch our quick YouTube video for an unboxing and demo. And if you're ready to get one, swing by our eBay listing to grab yours!

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/fingerfunk99 on 2025-02-20 15:07:52+00:00.


Shelly is Celebrating 20 Million Devices Sold With 20% OFF

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/kaeptnkrunch_1337 on 2025-02-20 10:58:24+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Miserable_Bluejay663 on 2025-02-20 10:17:50+00:00.

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