Fenderfreek

Sort of. As the previous poster pointed out, you need to make sure it’s assembled in a way that the nozzle is seated against the heat break inside the heater block, not against the heater block itself. You’ll have to do a complete disassembly to clean it up properly, and you may need to run a tap through the heater block to clean the threads, but when you assemble it, make sure that you back the nozzle off a turn or so, assemble the hot end so that the heatbreak is bottomed out against the nozzle, then heat it all up and torque the nozzle up snugly to the heatbreak(quarter turn past touching is usually sufficient). There are YouTube vids that will demonstrate hotend assembly better than I can explain it, but solid nozzle to heatbreak seal is critical for preventing this

You have an incorrectly torqued connection between the heatbreak tube, nozzle, and heater block that is allowing filament to work its way past the threads and out the top/bottom. You’ll likely need to clean off what you can while hot in order to get it to a place where it can be disassembled and fully cleaned.

You may need to heat or even torch some of those parts clean, since there’s no generally available solvent for PLA to soak it off.

To prevent this, make sure you’re properly torquing those parts together according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Final torque is normally applied with the hotend empty and at temp.

Orientation of hot vs neutral

The hardware mod method depends on a raspi rp2040 chip to fiddle with some CPU lines and emulate the storage, so the mega-cheap way involves a little fabrication and fly wires to a $3 board, but you can get premade flex-pcb kits called “picofly” boards for crazy cheap now, like 20 bucks. The hardest part is the precise and delicate soldering that absolutely requires skill and some high quality tools, but it’s not outside the realm of possibility if you’re already equipped and experienced with microscope-level repairs. It is an advanced level DIY procedure, and not for the inexperienced hobbyist.

Yes. You can mix it into “normal” resin to give additional toughness to the parts. It helps with small features that might require more delicate handling normally. I’ve used it at like 20-30% for stuff that needs just a little give, all the way up to like 80% for stuff that needed to be fairly flexible.

You can mix in a product like Tenacious resin to give them a little more flexibility to resist breaking

Quite an oversimplification, but it hit some of the high points. It’s a good little opinion piece, and worth the time, I think.

It’s absolutely a grand plan, and they’ve even written it all down. It’s called project 2025, and it’s their carefully engineered play by play for exactly this and more.

Just for anyone running across this later, another limitation of the EzFJr is that you have to load a custom F/w if you want SGB to work. The Krykzz cart works fine out the box for both platforms. That said, I do own both, and the EzFlash is a great budget alternative for handhelds if you can get it.

I have a X7 and a EzFlash Jr because I want my experience to be seamless and compatible with RTC games, but if you’re really after something for homebrew or don’t mind the added step for anything that supports saves, just get the cheaper one.

No

Not exactly. Some original carts with SRAM would save automatically. You could shut it off and when you turn it on again, your progress would be saved without doing anything manually(eg. Mario Six Golden Coins). In any case, even those games, you still have to do another manual operation on the cart to save the “virtual save”, so the difference is that saving requires an additional, manual step, beyond whatever the game itself requires