3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
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@Prunebutt
There is no seal like an o-ring.
It is bare metal to metal surface contact.
If there is a gap between nozzle backside end and heatbreak because the outer hexagonal part of the nozzle hit the heater block first (before the nozzle get tight at the heatbreak), it will leak through the treads and ooze out on the top.
If you can rotate the heaterblock after heating up the nozzle, then there is proof of the inside gap.
On a new hotend i disassemble it before mount it into the printer, screw in the nozzle in first and then turn it back half a turn.
Then screw the heatbreak in until it reaches the nozzle. Install it to the printer, heat to max used temperature, and tighten the nozzle again.
The heater block has bigger thermal expansion, so it tends to get loose by heating up.
If done correct you will never have problems like this, if the mating surfaces are even and not damaged.
That's what I meant with "seal". 😅
Thanks for the advice. Gonna implement it.
@Prunebutt Yw