I got a new Biqu H2V2 for my Ender 3 pro , since myold hotend started getting unreliable and that was a great excuse for yet another upgrade.
I wasn't happy with the carriage holder I printed, so I wanted to print a new one. After afew hours of printing, I needed to abandon one part, since it was incredibly messy with blobs of PLA gooped on the print. Since I needed the new carriage mount, I didn't think anything off it and simply abandoned that part and continued the other ones.
Today, I saw that the heating block is completely gooped up with PLA (see pictures). So now, I got two questions:
- How should I remove that gunk? I was thinking o| carefully peeling of everything without the silicone sleeve while the hotend is at a low PLA-bending temp, like 150°C, or 175°C.
- What caused this? Flowrate too high (the prints look the part)? Too fast extrusion? Heatcreep?
Thanks in advance. (:
So that means I need to teardown the extruder and check the seal of the heatbreak?
Sort of. As the previous poster pointed out, you need to make sure it’s assembled in a way that the nozzle is seated against the heat break inside the heater block, not against the heater block itself. You’ll have to do a complete disassembly to clean it up properly, and you may need to run a tap through the heater block to clean the threads, but when you assemble it, make sure that you back the nozzle off a turn or so, assemble the hot end so that the heatbreak is bottomed out against the nozzle, then heat it all up and torque the nozzle up snugly to the heatbreak(quarter turn past touching is usually sufficient). There are YouTube vids that will demonstrate hotend assembly better than I can explain it, but solid nozzle to heatbreak seal is critical for preventing this
I've cleaned the outside, but I don't know what you mead by that. Could you explain how I fix the threading?
@Prunebutt
There is no seal like an o-ring.
It is bare metal to metal surface contact.
If there is a gap between nozzle backside end and heatbreak because the outer hexagonal part of the nozzle hit the heater block first (before the nozzle get tight at the heatbreak), it will leak through the treads and ooze out on the top.
If you can rotate the heaterblock after heating up the nozzle, then there is proof of the inside gap.
On a new hotend i disassemble it before mount it into the printer, screw in the nozzle in first and then turn it back half a turn.
Then screw the heatbreak in until it reaches the nozzle. Install it to the printer, heat to max used temperature, and tighten the nozzle again.
The heater block has bigger thermal expansion, so it tends to get loose by heating up.
If done correct you will never have problems like this, if the mating surfaces are even and not damaged.
That's what I meant with "seal". 😅
Thanks for the advice. Gonna implement it.
@Prunebutt Yw